• Never mow wet grass.  It mows unevenly, and the clippings clog the mower.
• Vary your mowing pattern. Mowing in the same pattern tends to compact the soil.
• Mow grass on a regular basis.  Bermuda hybrids need to be mowed on a weekly basis at a height of 1/2" - 2".
• Bag your clippings. Mulching mowers tend to promote excess thatch accumulation.

Watering Tips

Lawns should be watered deeply to a soil depth of 6-12 inches and as infrequently as possible.  Running your sprinklers for a few minutes every day is the worst way to water a lawn. Roots will grow only where there is water, so if you consistently wet only the top few inches of soil, the roots will not venture any deeper.  Eventually, the shallow root development forces you into watering more often and that means trouble, because frequent watering keeps the surface wet, which is ideal for disease and insect development.  If roots go deep into the soil, they can draw on a larger underground water area and the lawn can go much longer between waterings.  The Golden Rule - DO NOT WATER EVERYDAY!!!

Water Saving Tips:

• Water early in the morning to maximize water pressure to your sprinklers and reduce evaporation.
• Deep soak to a soil depth of 12 inches.  Set lawn zones for 15-25 minute durations.
• Water Summer Bermuda lawns 2-3 times per week.  Winter ryegrass 1-2 times per week.  DON'T WATER EVERY DAY!
• Go easy on the fertilizer.  Excessive nitrogen causes fast growth and increases water requirements.
• Spot spray weeds to eliminate them from competing with grass for water.

Signs of under-watering:

• Grass turns bluish-grey and doesn't spring back after you step on it.
• Soil is too hard to push a screwdriver into.

Signs of over-watering:

• Grass has a musty odor and is extremely soft.
• Mushrooms and excessive weeds are present.

Ways to avoid excess thatch build-up in your lawn:

• Minimize activities that compact soil.
• Don't let the grass become too tall before mowing. (only remove 1/3 of the grass blade during regular mowing)
• Follow the recommended rates when applying fertilizer.
• Avoid frequent, shallow irrigation. (lawns should be deep soaked infrequently to a root depth of 6"-12")
• Core aerate and dethatch on a regular basis.

FOR MORE LAWN MAINTENANCE TIPS, LOG ONTO  www.scotts.com

Frequently Asked Questions

How do I know if my yard needs core aeration?

Arizona's clay soils, heavy traffic, more than 1/2" of thatch, standing water after irrigation, or lawns that brown easily in heat are all excellent candidates.  Any yard, healthy or not, can benefit from core aeration.  Remember, the best defense against lawn disease and weed infestation is a healthy drought tolerant lawn.

How do I know if I need Core Aeration and/or Dethatching?

Most lawns can benefit from core aeration during the growing season.  Aeration can solve most lawn problems and save water. However, if your lawn has built up a thatch layer in excess of 1/2", you should have it dethatched/power-raked.  Dethatching will eliminate the dense environment that allows insects and disease to live.  If you routinely overseed for a winter lawn, dethatching is a necessary process that is performed in the Fall months. (September-November)  Dormant Bermuda lawns can be dethatched in Winter - Spring prior to temperatures reaching 90 degrees.  In extreme cases, when thatch is uncontrollable with core aeration, dethatching can be performed anytime during the Summer growing season.

When should I aerate?

Arizona's warm season grasses, including all Bermuda hybrids (Tifgreen, Tifway, Santa Ana, E-Z Turf, Midiron, Bob-Sod, etc) can be aerated Spring thru Summer.  Cool season grasses such as Rye, Bluegrass, and Fescue should be aerated Fall thru Winter.

How often should my lawn be aerated?

In areas where the soil has a high clay content, compaction and thatch build-up is more prevalent, core aeration should be done twice a year.  In areas of more sandy or loamy soils, annual aeration will result in continued healthy lawns and improved irrigation and fertilizing efficiency.

Is Core Aeration a one-time fix?

No. Aeration needs to be a continual part of your lawn care plan just like fertilizing, dethatching, weed and pest control, irrigation and mowing.  Just like going to the dentist, aeration should be an annual or bi-annual preventive procedure.

Is reseeding and overseeding after core aeration a good practice?

Yes. Broadcast seeding after aeration will improve germination, as the seeds will intermix with the deterioration of plugs and have direct access to non-compacted soil in the holes of the turf.  If you prepare and seed your own lawn for winter grass, please call to schedule core aeration prior to installing your winter lawn.

Can I rent an aerator or power rake and do it myself?

Yes.  However, the minimum rental fees on these machines usually exceeds $100 and you must arrange for pick-up and transporting.  We bring commercial lawn equipment to your property, include fertilizer, and dispose of the thatch if power-raking is performed.